Pocket Squares | Salt Lake City, Utah | UWM Men's Shop

In the business world, much is to be said about the outfits that define our character. Behind ever well-suited man there is a soul, and that soul is as different as night and day from those around it. In order to break that mold and fall into a world of cookie cutter suits, feel free to express yourself with subtle but wardrobe changing accessories.

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One of the subtlest ways to spruce up your outfit is by shoving a pocket square into your suits breast pocket. The history of the pocket square has a bright and colorful past and is oftentimes mistaken for handkerchiefs. Anciently pocket squares were doused with fragrance in order to mask the smell of body odors. King Richard II is often considered the inventor of the pocket square as a fashion accessory.

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In the 19th century, as two-piece suits came into fashion, pocket squares became more prevalent as an aesthetic to the outfit. It was also common to see men with two handkerchiefs, one used as a tissue, and another as a fashion garment. With the rise of tissues, the nose blowing handkerchief was relatively made obsolete. The pocket square rose into the decorative accessory we know and love today.

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You can fold it into a square and just have a nice flat splash of color or neutral white. You can pinch the corner and have the tips peak out in an almost flower form. Pocket-squares can and should be in the same color family as your tie but should not be the same color or pattern. Setting is also a huge factor in how subtle or bold your pocket square should be. For black tie events. Your square should be contemporary and subtle, for more relaxed parties, have fun. You are the captain of your outfit. Do not be afraid to be bold.





Italian Suits | Salt Lake City | City Creek Mall

What is it about the Italians that demand our awe when it comes to suiting? Of course there are other places where suits are produced, but that simple “Made in Italy” label on the inside of a suit is a game changer! But what is it that makes Italian suits so special?



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In 1952 after the first fashion show held at Palazzo Pitti in Florence there were many names believed to have had a significant role in the design of the Italian suit, as we know it today. Some remarkable mentions are Ermenegildo Zegna, Nazareno Fonticoli (founder of Brioni) and Armani.




Regardless of the particular tailor or designer, there’s a common element that led to the Italian suit, Italians. Italians were not comfortable in the stiff and structured British cut. A suit that is too heavy to be worn comfortably in warmer weather. The concern was more with looking “clean.” Fits that are exacting and slim.This means no wrinkles or excess fabric.




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There are several details that set an Italian suit apart. The one that really sets it apart is the weight or “lightness”. The garment, in fact, looks light, feels light, and wears light. It fits tight and close to the body. The canvas lining is also very light. The jacket is considerably less structured compared to American and British suit stylings, and as a result the cloth follows the wearers natural curves. The front of the jacket shows a pronounced V-shape, tight at the waist.

 

The sleek silhouette set by the jacket is a constant also in the pants, thus giving a smooth look from head to toes. The pants with a tapered waist, which fit tight to the hips. In the most traditional design, pants would end with a break. Nowadays, no-break type of pants is also common in Italian style. When it comes to the Italian suit the concern is more about individual style and relaxing on the idea of correctness. To stand out is the whole point!

I was recently in Cinque Terre - a small cluster of cities on the Mediterranean. As we took a bus from the mountain side down to the ocean, I noticed people hammering rocks back into the side wall. I asked the bus driver what was going on. He said that every day there are crews of men who pound the rocks back into the original walls - keeping the authentic, and original wall in tact. I thought to myself “there is no way something like this would exist in the states. We would concrete that wall and call it a day!” But this is exactly the difference between the Italians and the rest of us. For them, the labor is part of the craft, and staying authentic to how things are SUPPOSED to be made takes precedence over how things COULD be made. We are all about quick and dirty here, in Italy they are all about tradition and the art - and suiting is no exception.

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At UWM Mens Shop we are excited to have Italian suits from Givocci, Kiton, Isaia, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna and Canali that carry on the tradition of Italian suiting at its best!  

 






History of the (neck) Tie | Salt Lake City | UWM MEN'S SHOP

One of the most basic men’s accessories is the necktie, but have you ever really wondered where they came from and why they are a staple in men’s wear?

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Neckties originated in the 17th century when Croatian mercenaries hired by King Louis XIII wore colored fabric around their necks. This led way to the creation of the pre-modern neckties. Worn as a symbol of honor towards the Croatian people. Tie’s became mandatory for meetings and royal gatherings for the next 400 years.



Although the styles have changed through the ages, neckties have stayed basically the same for the past 100 years. During the 1930’s and the Art Deco movement, ties became more elaborate and wide. Ties were made with lots of fabric folded intricately 7 to 11 times. Creating a heavier tie that laid flat, and created an distinguished knot. At the beginning of World War II, fabric was rationed, and ties were made with the least amount of fabric possible, creating the standard necktie that we know and love today.



Tie width took a decline in the 50’s with the creation of the skinny tie to accommodate and accentuate the form fitting and heavily tailored suits men were wearing. The following 40 years held no regard to consistency. You could find skinny ties, as well as ties reaching 6 inches wide!



After the roller coaster of styles and trends, every tie pattern and fabric is available today, with more patterns, fabrics, and width than ever before. Although ‘standard’ neckties are now 3 to 3 ½ inches wide, skinny ties are still incredibly popular to young men. (As a side note, the width of your tie should compliment and match the width of your suit lapel.)


With the trend of menswear going away from ties, we are defiantly pushing against that! PULL THOSE TIES BACK OUT! Men don’t get a lot of accessories, and ties are a great way to add a little extra to your outfit.

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Canvassed Suits | Salt Lake City | City Creek Center

Here at UWM Men's Shop we want you to know what goes into the construction of our Suit Jackets and Sportcoats, and what sets us apart from the rest. Today, are a few ways in which jackets are constructed:

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Canvassed Jackets

Traditionally, men’s suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath the wool shell. The canvas helps to hold the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming,  similar to how the foundation of a house keeps it upright. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, the wool is then stitched to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas will begin to conform to the shape of the wearers body, creating an excellent fit.The canvas lining allows the suit to drape naturally, presenting a well put-together clean look.               

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Fused Jackets

Many suit manufacturers no longer use a canvas lining in their jackets. Instead they’re using a fused lining which is glued to the wool shell of the suit. Often this creates an unnatural stiffness in the jacket, making it appear lifeless compared to a canvassed coat, also, with a fused jacket overtime the glue will breakdown. The wool detaches from the fused backing causing it to ripple we call this “dimpling”. Once this happens there is no way to fix your jacket.

Half-Canvassed Jackets

Half-canvassed jackets have the canvas layer running only through the chest and lapels of the coat. The benefit to this, there will be a lower price than a fully canvassed jacket. The top half of the jacket is canvassed you won’t run into the issues you may with a fused jacket. This will extend the life of the jacket.

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How to tell the difference?

The pinch test is a great way to determine whether a jacket is canvassed or fused.
First, pinch the cloth below the bottom buttonhole from the inside and outside of the jacket. Gently pull the layers apart. If you feel a third layer, then the coat is fully canvassed. If you don’t feel a third layer the jacket is more than likely fused.

We prefer canvassed jackets for three reasons:

1. Canvassed jackets look better.
2. Canvassed construction tends to have better styles and cuts.
3. Canvassed jackets last longer.                                                                                                  

4. All jackets at UWM are full or half canvassed




To learn more, please swing by our store and we can show you in person how canvas constructed suits will change the way you look at your wardrobe!

Winter Overcoats and Sportcoats | Salt Lake City | City Creek Center

Layers can either make or break an outfit. You put on your favorite suit, and add the layers on until your winter coat makes you feel like Randy from A Christmas Story. The hybrid jacket, beyond unique, is a sporty winter coat and we have ours that range our fabrics and and variations in them with Loro Piana fabrics. Making it a nice soft wool and we even have some with the cashmere touch to them as well.

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The hybrid concept has leaked into ¾ jackets. Full length trench coats are not only bulky, but constrictive, these jackets reach almost to your knee level, adding class and elegance to your winter wardrobe.  




A nice night in the city dining out with coworkers or friends. Hybrid jackets are a must, as they have a detachable bib that will zip right out. In the cold and if you pick up the storm system jacket they are wind proof, no more need for a scarf wrapped around your neck. Once you are in the restaurant or a meeting unzip out the bib and you have an eloquent sport coat.  

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Big coats can be a hassle. You no longer have to hang them at the door, simply wear them to the table. The most beautiful things are the classiest. These hybrids are the pieces that will keep you stylish whether you love in Florida and need a sport coat, but fly to New york and need that extra windscreen. It really is the beauty behind the madness of modern day fashion, and the hottest winter item in our one hundred thirteen year business.




Bespoke Suits | Salt Lake City, Utah | City Creek Mall

Custom suits are a great avenue when you need something truly special and unique. Sometimes special occasions require exceptionally special clothes! The style of a one-of-a-kind suit really helps you stand out.

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There are a few problems with shopping “off the rack”: you may not fit into the garment(s) exactly how you expect, you may not like the material or color the clothes are made of, or there may even be a defect in the clothing you’re looking at. We here at UWM Men’s Shop recognize these potential issues and offer our customers another option - custom suits. Our custom suits, produced mainly in Canada and Italy, are the best in the world.

 

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The tailoring of a suit is just as important as the material it is made of. High quality tailoring and construction yields a high quality suit - the same goes for the material composition of the suit. Luckily, we have some of the best tailoring and manufacturing staff in the world. We take high quality textiles and let our master tailor(s) work their magic! Conveniently, you - the customer - are involved in every step of the process when putting together your custom suit. First, you and one of our made to measure specialists will look at swatches to pick your ideal fabric (we have plenty of swatches varying in material and price). Then, we take your measurements for the suit to fit just how you like it to. We then fill out an order slip, send it into our manufacturers, and wait roughly six weeks for your suit to arrive!

 

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Our custom suits range from approximately $2,000 on up. The price is largely determined on the fabric you choose and the features on the suit. Check out all the options on your next visit into the store!

Custom Suits by Utah Woolen Mills

The thought of a custom suit is impossible to ignore for a true suit connoisseur.  There is something about having a suit specifically made just for you that feels so right - something that is uniquely yours, made only for you.

At UWM our most popular custom suits are our own private label Richards Street (hand made in Montreal, Canada). Right in the center of all our in-stock, ready-to-wear suits, we have a table dedicated specifically for this line of custom suits. We constantly get in new fabric swatches and keep our list updated and accurate - even throughout a season, to insure you have all the options you could possibly want. You will never have to worry about not finding a fabric that fits you and your style. We will even keep your measurements on file for the next round. This way when you absolutely love your suit and want another the process is quick and simple. Lead time on our custom suits is between 4-6 weeks.

We also have the availability to do custom suiting from Kiton,  Isaia, Brioni, Ermenegildo Zegna and Canali.

Our Custom suits start at $1795 

Richards Street has profound importance for our store. Our original address was 28 Richards Street. We have chosen very special mills to produce our suits. They have a full canvas construction that enables the suit to drape to your own body and aides in providing you with a nice tailored look. Anyone who owns one of these suits understands why we have chosen to back this suit with such a significant name to our store.

Men's Bracelets | Salt Lake City, Utah | City Creek Center Mall

Fashion is a fluid and ever-changing concept; a spectrum with endless possibilities of dress and accessory combinations. Today, maybe more than ever, we are seeing these accessories paired with daring colors on contemporary clothing cuts. These components lead to a truly modern outfit - sophisticated, precise, eye-catching, and overall well put together. Bracelets and cufflinks are great accessories that can go along with nearly any outfit. With many different styles and colors available, there is surely an accessory to go well with the rest of your outfit.

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Tateossian is a wonderful company out of England producing designer luxury jewellery for men and women. In store we carry their bracelets, but they also create top of the line cufflinks, tie clips, pins, and various other accessories. Nowadays, with style and fashion evolving so quickly, bracelets can act similarly to watches. A bracelet works as a nice and relatively simple piece to accent or compliment your composed outfit. In fact, you’ll see many of us employees proudly wearing these bracelets to enhance our attire!

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Another great accessory are cufflinks. Similar to the bracelets, Tateossian produces top of the line cufflinks as well. Cufflinks were originally created to literally link the cuffs of your shirt. However, they have now evolved into an opportunity to personalize your outfit and add some flair. Here at UWM Men’s Shop, we carry quite a variety of cufflinks - from more “flashy” ones (like skulls or small flash drives) to traditional silver pieces. There is almost definitely a cufflink here that will catch your eye and can enhance your outfit.

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Overall, accessories are meant to build upon and enhance an outfit. Whether you’re dressed formally and conservatively for an event, or more casually and loosely, there are accessories that can add that finishing touch that distinguishes you from the rest.

Canali | Salt Lake City, Utah | City Creek Center

“A family-run company now in its third generation, Canali is a modern-day design and manufacturing group with its own production centers all located in Italy and more than 1,800 employees worldwide. In addition to its 250 boutiques a number that continues to grow, the brand can also be found in over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries across the globe.”

 

Canali is a high quality men’s brand based out of Italy. Founded by Giacomo and Giovanni Canali in 1934, they started as a family business. The company has now grown into an international business with over 1,700 employees. At Canali, “80 years of Made in Italy” goes into everything they create.

 

Canali really emphasizes the “fluidity” of the process of creating a garment, whether it be trousers, a sport coat, or a full suit. On their website, they cover this in “Rewind”, a short film going over the process of creating each garment. “Rewind is a three-minute film about everything that is hidden, everything that comes before the simple act of putting on a jacket. This journey transpires in reverse, like a melodic dance, moving backwards from the final creation all the way to the initial idea. All this to convey that there is nothing simple about the process and that behind every single detail lie many individuals, hundreds of steps, care, attention, and also, love. Rewind tells a story of passion, creativity, commitment, teamwork. As with a film or with any finished work of art, it is impossible to imagine just how much time and effort is involved.

This film is dedicated to all of this work. An homage for all those who work behind the scenes of that world.”

 

Canali prides themselves in using premium fabric, the latest fashion trends, and sartorial excellence to create all of their products. The Canali tailoring principle aims to achieve aesthetic perfection; anything short is sent back to the drawing board for revision.